Before you install fiber cement shake siding, review and ensure compliance with all local building codes and regulations regarding the selection and proper use of sheathings, water-resistive barriers, flashings and other building materials and systems.
Individual Shakes must be installed over wall construction with framing spacing 16″ to 24″ o.c. (max.) and a minimum of 7/16″ OSB or 1/2″ plywood sheathing. Use double hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. Do not use electro-galvanized fasteners because they corrode faster, especially in coastal areas.
Starter Strip You can use fiber cement, vinyl utility trim, or PVC skirt board as a starter strip. When starting installation at ground level, establish a straight, level chalk line to guide the positioning of the starter strip and the shake starter course.
- Find the lowest point of the sheathing and make a mark that is 1″ above the lowest point. The bottom edge of the siding will be 2-1/4″ below the mark you just made. Make sure this point is high enough to ensure that the shakes are installed at least 6″ above the finished grade or 1″ above surfaces where water may collect.
- From this mark, snap a level chalk line to the opposite end of the wall. Repeat this step around the entire house.
- Using the chalk line as a guide, attach a starter strip.
Starter Course To ensure that the keyways are fully backed by fiber cement, install the first course of Individual Shakes over a full starter course of 9-1/4″ lap fiber cement siding. If you are transitioning from less than 9-1/4″ Lap Siding to Individual Shakes, use 9-1/4″ Lap Siding as your starter course at the transition. If you are starting the wall with Individual Shakes, place a starter strip under the starter course.
Using the starter strip as a guide, attach the starter course so that the bottom edge will project at least 1/4″ below the bottom edge of the starter strip.
- Place the fastener 1″ from the top of the panel and no closer than 3/8″ from the edge. Drive the fasteners a minimum of 1-1/4″ into the structural framing, but do not over-drive the fasteners and do not place the fasteners in the center, unsupported area of the siding.
- Fasten from one end of the panel to the other.
First Course of Individual Shakes
- Install the first shake with the bottom edge slightly below the starter course. Be sure to maintain a 1/8″ gap at all trim locations. Always caulk between the siding and the trim.
- Place fasteners 1″ from the side edges and 9″ up from the bottom of the shake.
- Continue installing shakes in a random manner, mixing the 6-1/4″, 8-1/4″ and 12″ shake sizes.
- Maintain a 1/4″ keyway gap between shakes. Use the edge of a shake or a piece of 1/4″ plywood as a jig to maintain even spacing between Individual Shakes.
Second and Subsequent Courses
- Select and position the shake 8″ up from the bottom of the previous course, such that course-to-course keyway spacing is no closer than 1-1/2″.
- Place fasteners 1″ from the side edges and 9″ up from the bottom of the shake. Fasteners must penetrate the top of the shakes of the previous course.
- Continue installing shakes in a random manner, mixing the 6-1/4″, 8-1/4″ and 12″ shake sizes to maintain the 1/4″ keyway gaps and 1-1/2″ minimum keyway spacing.
- Individual Shakes are designed and installed to create a straight-edge, 8″ exposure finished application. Alternative applications, such as staggered edge, can be achieved with the Individual Shakes following the basic steps noted above. However, the exposure should never be less than 6-1/2″ and the fastening location should be kept 9″.
Decorative Post Caps and Trim Add some personality to your custom deck with our expanded selection of post accessories provides the elegance of metal without the unwanted side effect of corrosion. Also available is a complete line of coated PVC post accessories — decorative post caps, solar post caps and post trims in five metallic finishes: Antique Brown, Antique Copper, Antique Gray, Antique Gold and Patina. All coordinate with 4″ x 4″ post sleeves.
New products and finishes broaden your choices in cellular PVC trim.
6″ and 8″ Fiber Cement Skirtboard Manufactured with a unique beveled lap that automatically sets the first course for fiber cement siding installation, cellular PVC skirtboard can come into direct contact with the ground or concrete. Skirtboard ensures that fiber cement is installed at 6″ minimum clearance above the finished grade and can be used as a transition board between shakes and lap siding. With its patent-pending DualStart™ design, it’s reversible and flippable to either TrueTexture™ woodgrain or smooth finish. Skirtboard is available in 12′ lengths, 1″ and 5/4″ thicknesses, and 6″ and 8″ widths.
4″ J-pocket Trimboard with Cut-out Available in smooth/smooth or woodgrain/smooth texture, this new window trim features a cut-out that allows trimboards to lie flush around windows and doors with built-in nail flanges, taking the work out of making perfect miter cuts at the corners.
Column Wraps Square column wraps come pre-cut, pre-mitered, and pre-assembled to easily wrap around existing load-bearing 4″x 4″ or 6″ x 6″ porch posts to create a low-maintenance porch column. Available 8″ x 8″ and 10″ x 10″ square, the 9′ wraps come in a smooth finish and coordinate with any EverNew® vinyl or composite railing system. Choose from either Classic or Estate cap/base trim sets.
Satin Finish Profiles Our great profiles are now available with an enhanced satin finish that allows for improved paintability. The current glossy profiles will be phased out during the first quarter of 2012.
Beadboard with TightLap™ Featuring both a larger lap and traditional groove, the new Beadboard with TightLap™ delivers faster installation and a tight fit for better hold and a larger concealed nailing area. The 2TL is 1/2″ x 6″ x 18′, while the 3TL measures 1/2″ x 8-1/2″ x 18′. Both sizes feature a reversible smooth surface with two attractive repeat patterns.
New products and services for 2012.
Enhanced CertainTeed ColorMax® Stains will be available from all fiber cement manufacturing facilities. The three-layer ColorMax system includes our exclusive FiberTect® primer/sealer for protection against moisture, ColorMax base coat to further enhance resistance to weather and ColorMax semi-transparent coat that enhances the deep, natural grain pattern of WeatherBoards to create the rich look of stained wood.
ColorMax® Stains are available on:
- Perfection Shingles
- Random Square Straight Edge Shakes (7″ exposure)
- Random Square Staggered Edge Shakes
- 6-1/4″, 7-1/4″, and 8-1/4″ Lap Siding
- 12″ and 16″ Solid and Perforated Soffit
- 5/4″ trim in 4″ x 12′ and 6″ x 12′
Lap siding is offered in full and half units. Shapes, soffits and trim are offered in full and micro units.
In addition, we are adding four of our most popular CertainTeed vinyl siding colors to our Custom Color program: Pacific Blue, Cypress, Flagstone and Forrest.
The New Year brings new colors and products.
Seagrass is the newest “It” color, and we’re offering it in our most popular panels and accessories:
- Cedar Impressions® Shakes and all Vinyl Carpentry® accessories for Cedar Impressions
- Monogram® panels and all Vinyl Carpentry accessories for Monogram
- T 3-1/3″ InvisiVent® Soffit and Vertical Siding
- Universal Soffit and Vertical Siding: T-4″ solid and fully vented soffit
- Tree ailments diagnosed
- Pruning, tree removal and leaf removal services
- Tree stumps removed
- Soil analyses performed
- Emergency help when a tree has been damaged in a storm
- Assistance with insect and disease control
- Help with planting new trees
- Fire wood
- Post-construction tree maintenance
- Ask to see verification of current certification before you allow work to begin.
- Compare estimates
- Insist on securing a signed contract that outlines the services to be performed, the time period in which they will be performed and the cost.
- Don’t pay for any services until they are completed.
- Ask that tree spikes not be used unless necessary.
The weather outside can be frightful, which of course means you can turn your attention to maintaining your appliances and indoor systems.
|Exterior, Basement & Foundation|
|Check your home’s crawlspace for water damage, animals, or other foreign matter.
|Interior & Appliance|
|Look for leaks in toilet water feed and tank bottom.
|Clean your washing machine’s water inlet filters. Check hoses and replace if leaking.
|Trip circuit breakers and GFI’s, or ground fault interrupters, monthly to insure proper protection
|Check for leaks around and under sinks, showers, and tubs.
Turn on the faucet and check for leaks in the pipes under the sink. Look for mold on shower walls that could indicate there’s leakage behind them. And check for cracks in the grout where the tub meets the floor.
|Replace or clean filters in furnace
|Clean grease filter from your range hood
|Clean out the refrigerator, wash door gasket, clean drain hole and pan, vacuum the condenser coils.
|Backyard & Landscape|
|As fall ends, rake the last bit of fallen leaves to prepare for winter
|Spot treat any cases of winter weeds in warm-season turf & spread a crab-grass pre-emergent
Light Surface Carpet Cleaning
- Wet Shampooing - A professional carpet cleaner will apply shampoo to your carpet with a buffer machine. The machine operator must be careful not to damage your carpet with the rotary discs on the buffer. After the solution dries in one to several hours, as much of the residue as possible is vacuumed up. The disadvantages to this method are that you’ll have to wait for the carpet to dry and that some residual dirt and shampoo will inevitably remain at the end of the process.
- Dry Cleaning - There are several different methods to “dry cleaning” carpets. Some are completely dry methods, and others involve using wet cleaning solutions that dry very quickly.
- Absorbent Powder - In this method, a professional sprinkles a solvent onto your carpet and allows it to set for a short time. He or she will work the powder into your carpet with a buffer machine. With no drying time, as much of the residue as possible is vacuumed up. This method, unfortunately, will also leave some residual dirt and residue in your carpet.
- Bonnet - Professional carpet cleaners will often use a buffer machine with a bonnet attachment that is dipped in cleaning solution that contains carbonated water. As they work the machine over your carpet, the bonnet absorbs the dirt. Once the bonnet is saturated, it is replaced with a clean one. The advantage here is that most of the dirt in your carpet leaves with the soiled bonnets.
- Dry Foam - This is pretty much the same process as the shampooing method of carpet cleaning, except dry foam is used instead of shampoo. The obvious advantage here is that there is no drying time. There may be some leftover solution, but that is easily vacuumed up after cleaning. In fact, some cleaning machines will have a vacuum built in just for this purpose.
Deep Carpet Cleaning with Hot Water Extraction
The dry cleaning methods above are great for a quick cleaning of the top 1/3 of your carpet. However, to ensure your carpets are thoroughly cleaned, have them professionally deep cleaned at least once every 12 -18 months. This will help prolong the life of your carpet.
There’s only one method available for a genuine cleaning of this type: external (or hot water) extraction. This method is commonly referred to as steam cleaning, although no actual steam is used. Advances in this technology have made it the safest, most popular, and most thorough method of carpet cleaning available. A floor wand shoots a pressurized combination of solution and hot water into your carpet that is immediately vacuumed into a holding tank.
While a portable, rentable unit utilizes the tap water and electricity of the household, a truck-mounted system is self-contained and exhausts all the dirty air and humidity directly out of your home. A truck-mounted unit will also provide higher pressures and hotter temperatures for a deeper clean that will let your carpet dry faster. Be sure to ask any potential carpet cleaners to if they use the preferable truck-mounted system.
Professional Carpet Cleaning Prices
Another big consideration with professional carpet cleaning is price. Some things to take into account when comparing prices for carpet cleaning services are:
- Most remodeling companies charge per square foot of carpet and by the number of rooms and floors. Prices vary, but typically, you can expect to pay from 15 to 30 cents per square foot for a home that has 5,000 square feet or less of carpet. If you have a home with more than 5,000 square feet of carpet, a cleaning should run you less than 15 cents per square foot. The less carpet you have, the more you’ll pay per square foot. This is standard because the carpet cleaning company still has to drive to your house, set up the equipment, etc.
- Inquire about the different methods of carpet cleaning. Find out what types they typical use, what they recommend for your particular needs, and what the different costs are for each carpet cleaning method.
- Ask about additional costs for removing tough stains and odors and prices for cleaning staircases and area rugs. Keep in mind that rug-cleaning costs may vary depending on the material.
- Think about any other remodeling contractor services you might want in advance. For example, does your upholstery need cleaning? If so, it should be cheaper to go ahead and do it while you have the cleaners there if you can afford it.
|Better Energy Efficiency with Vinyl Siding|