Winterizing Procedure for In Ground Swimming Pools
Winterizing Procedure for In Ground Swimming Pools
Chemicals Required:
- Dry Acid/Alkali
- Shock Chlorine granules
- Long Life Winteriser
- Liquid Chlorine
- Ensure pool is clean and clear.
- Bring pH to 7.4 to 7.6 using Dry Acid or Dry Alkali as necessary.
- Super chlorinate the water to 10ppm using Shock Granules or Liquid Chlorine.
- Add 1st Direct’s Longlife Algeacide. (2ltrs will treat 11,000 gallons).
- Keep pump running for 8 hours to disperse chemicals thoroughly.
- Periodically through the winter, check the pool, ensure the pH is between 7.4 and 7.6 and the chlorine level is above 5ppm.
- If chlorine level is low add Liquid Chlorine and stir pool to ensure even distribution, as concentrated areas of chlorine can cause bleaching of the liner. The pool should especially be checked after Christmas and around March as most pools go green when the ambient temperature starts to rise
1st direct Winterizing Program
- Never empty pools for the winter.
- Thoroughly backwash filter and lower the water level to below the skimmer weir; the only exception to the rule being pools installed in high water table areas, where lowering the water level could cause problems. In these circumstances, consult the original builder of the pool.
- Store summer covers clean and dry during the winter and fit winter cover.
- Store vacuum equipment and automatic cleaners indoors.
- Remove skimmer weir and basket and store in filter shed. Half fill plastic bottle with anti freeze mixture or small stones and place in skimmer barrel to prevent ice damaging the skimmer.
- Add winterising chemicals and allow to circulate.
- Make sure the filter, pump and heater are drained down for the winter and all exposed pipework holding water. If the filter is positioned below water level, seek further advice from the experts by simply clicking on ‘contact 1st Direct’.
- Spray the electric motor and any electrical equipment with a moisture repellent spray or preferably remove pump and store in warm dry conditions. Switch off electrical equipment.
- If heat pump is fitted flush with clean water.
- If auto chemical feeder is fitted, remove chemical and flush with clean water and leave drained.
- Remove all stainless steel steps, rollers etc and wipe clean and store in dry store.
If we experience a particularly hard winter, 1st Direct suggest the following especially for concrete pools: tie a row of half filled plastic containers (fill with an anti-freeze solution or sand) along the middle of the pool. This is to form a frost break to relieve pressure of ice on the sides. Formed ice should not be broken, as sharp edges may damage the pool lining. You may also be interested in looking at road sweepers to keep the area clean.
Wood vs. Composite Decks
Wood vs. Composite Decks
What you need to know to choose your decking material
Ann Matesi, Senior Contributing Editor May 1, 2008 Professional Remodeler.com
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Wood, composite and PVC decks all offer advantages to the homeowner. Photo by Clark Marten |
When it comes to selecting the surface material for their outdoor deck, homeowners’ options are better looking, better performing and easier to install.This includes traditional wood decking materials such as pressure-treated pine, redwood, western red cedar, or imported hardwoods; composites made from a blend of reclaimed and recycled materials that typically contain a percentage of wood fiber designed to mimic natural wood without the maintenance; and the newcomer to the market, vinyl — or PVC — decking products that promise a virtually zero-maintenance deck surface but so far have not been able to replicate the beauty of real wood.
All have their pros and cons in terms of appearance and performance that must be considered carefully job-by-job to give customers results that best suit their lifestyle and budget. For this reason, most deck construction specialists work closely with their clients to determine their needs, then specify, design and build what materials best suit the project rather than using a single material.
Natural Wood Decks Natural wood decks continue to be the benchmark for aesthetics. “I’m still a big fan of all wood decks, and my clients still seem to prefer the look of a wood deck,” says Dave Tibbetts, owner of Cumming, Ga.-based Atlanta Decking and Fence. “But the reality is that a wood deck requires a good deal of effort in terms of cleaning and sealing to keep it beautiful year after year.”
Decks constructed using composite materials are more expensive than natural wood decks, adding about 35 percent to the total cost of the project. But the extra investment can be a worthwhile tradeoff for homeowners who are looking to quickly boost the market value of their home. When using vinyl decks, customers can expect to pay 5 percent more than composite prices. “These low- or no-maintenance decks can be a very good value if the owner is planning to be in their home for more than five years,” says Tibbetts, who today builds about 20 percent of his projects using composites.
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| Outdoor kitchens and fireplaces can be installed even on decks when the proper precautions are taken. Photo courtesy of Fiberon |
Nearly 80 percent of clients of deck specialist John Burns, owner of American Deck of Winchester in Winchester, Va., opt for a composite deck. “Our typical composite customer has already had a wood deck in the past, is well aware of the maintenance requirements and does not want to deal with those again,” he says. “They come to us requesting composites because they are ready to make the upgrade.”"Composites have come a long way in the past five years,” continues Burns. “There have been tremendous improvements in terms of their performance and aesthetics.”
Composite materials also bring an added element of design flexibility to a project, says Jim Sasko of Teakwood Builders in Saratoga Springs, N.Y., which really pleases his clients with upscale projects. “You can do some really interesting things like bending the deck around trees much more easily using composites.”
Sasko builds about 90 percent of his deck projects using composite materials and reserves all-wood decks for sheltered, undercover applications such as gazebos, screened porches and three-season rooms.
Installation, presentation challenges
All decks — wood, composite or vinyl — are constructed on a pressure-treated wood foundation, but design and installation techniques vary. Experience is the best teacher.
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Wood decks still offer unmatched aesthetics, but there’s trade-off in maintenance and longevity. Photo courtesy of Southern Pine Council |
“There definitely is a learning curve associated with working with composites and vinyls as you make the changeover from building all-wood decks,” says Burns. The most important thing to keep in mind, he says, is in the planning of the deck: “The spans must be designed correctly depending on the surfacing material that you are using.”"Composites require a slightly beefier substructure to handle the spans,” agrees Eric Kent, president of Archadeck of Charlotte. “Composites require 12-inch on center construction as opposed to 16-inch on center for wood.”
Hidden fastening systems, which eliminate the appearance of screws or other hardware on the deck surface are available for both wood and composite decks and becoming more popular and user-friendly these days, says Burk. “Nobody really wants to look at fasteners.”
“Use of hidden fasteners really takes the appearance of the deck so much further than just the use of colored screw heads, which is what we did in the past,” he says. “Almost all composite manufacturers have developed or improved upon their own hidden fastener solutions these days. Because they are designed to be used with the manufacturer’s pre-grooved deck boards, they can really save a lot of installation time once you are familiar with the product.”
“Do your homework,” advises George Drummond of Casa Decks in Virginia Beach, Va., “particularly when experimenting with new products or materials, including the new hidden fastening systems.” Drummond says that he uses hidden fasteners on about 30 percent of his projects. A simple mistake such as over tightening the screw in the fastener can ruin its integrity.
“The most important thing is to make sure that you read and understand all of the manufacturer’s instructions on how to install any decking product before you start the project because that can make all the difference. Remember, it is your reputation that is on the line as well.”
To read more about decking, click here. To read more about outdoor entertainment spaces, click here.
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Replacement Window Options
Replacement Window Options
A replacement is only as good as its installation
Scott T. Shepherd, PATH Partners March 17, 2006 HousingZone.com
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New windows offer the perfect opportunity to improve a home’s aesthetics and energy efficiency, but too often this chance slips away with inadequate installation.
“Remodelers are very meticulous, and they really try to get it right,” says Cordell Burton, a senior installation engineer at Pella Windows. “But in remodeling, every circumstance is unique and remodelers have to be able to adjust to the situation.”
When replacing a window, consider the condition of the existing flashing, the frame and the surrounding wall.
With every installation, you’ll need to determine how much of the window assembly to replace. If the window isn’t too badly damaged or if the customer wants to upgrade to a more energy efficient one, you may be able to do a partial replacement. Keeping some of the original materials, including surrounding trim and surfaces, can save on material costs and may take a lot less work. (See “Window Repair Options” on page 38 for general guidelines.)One popular option is replacing the window sash and track, which often come in a kit with a counterbalance mechanism and hardware. This is a good way to preserve existing components and reduce waste. However, the existing frame must be dry and in good condition with no rot and relatively square parallel jambs.
When installing a new window within an existing frame, you are actually placing a unit within a unit. Even if the original frame is not square, the secondary frame may be able to accommodate that. However, this method reduces the size of the glass and the available opening, which may conflict with applicable building code egress requirements. Check your local code to be sure.
No partial replacement method will address air leakage at the existing frame’s perimeter. Air leaks can lead to water damage. If there is a possibility or any evidence that the original frame is compromised, replace — or at least remove, investigate and rebuild — the original frame.
If the original window was not properly sealed, flashed and maintained, the homeowner has a problem. It may be more serious than it first appears. Check carefully for damage to the frame, the sill and the surrounding wall.
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If window damage is minor and limited to the wood frames, they can usually be repaired with epoxy products after the frames dry out thoroughly. Epoxy consolidants penetrate and bind with the wood fibers while preventing further deterioration. Consolidants create a surface that may be worked as wood after curing.
The windowsill is the most vulnerable part of the frame, so check the sill and the surrounding wall carefully. A deteriorated windowsill can ultimately compromise the entire wall by providing an avenue for greater water infiltration. Signs of interior water stains below the window will indicate possible damage. Removing interior sill trim will also give you access to investigate water damage.
Replacement sills have been developed from materials such as wood composites and vinyl — and these will work if the damage stops at the sill. But if damage is more extensive, you should replace the whole unit.
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Replacing the entire window assembly provides the best opportunities for investigating underlying problems, correcting damage and assuring proper installation. You can also improve the thermal performance of the frame.Frame materials are a key consideration. The frame can affect not only a window’s appearance, but also its energy efficiency. On the whole, fiberglass is one of the better performers among window frame materials because manufacturers can hollow out the frames and fill them with insulation without sacrificing their strength or integrity. Wood windows are also efficient and may best match an older home’s existing style. Vinyl frames are most affordable, while metal frames allow the maximum amount of glass.
One strong and increasingly popular option is composite frames, which combine two or more materials, such as a wood foundation with vinyl or aluminum cladding. Composite frames can look like wood and are about as efficient, but are more resistant to warping, fading, denting, moisture and decay.
Avoiding water infiltration is key to proper window installation. Window openings often allow water infiltration because they interrupt the waterproofing of the outside wall. Most leakage problems are related to improper or insufficient flashing details or the absence of flashing.
“One of the biggest mistakes remodelers make is not getting the new window tied into the existing walls’ water-resistive barrier system,” says Gary Mathes, Pella’s residential architectural support services manager. “You have to get your flashing materials right. Make sure the head flashing is behind the water-resistive barrier and the sill flashing is lapped over the weather barrier to create a watershed effect.”
Don’t emphasize speedy window installation at the expense of good flashing techniques. The resultant callbacks will cost more in the long run.
The PATH booklet Durability by Design: A Guide for Residential Builders and Designers (available at www.pathnet.org, click on “Resources” and then “Publications”) offers some important tips:
- Water runs downhill, so make sure flashing is appropriately layered with other flashings or the drainage plane material (i.e., tar, felt or housewrap).
- Water can be forced uphill by wind, so make sure that flashings have the recommended width overlap.
- Sometimes capillary action will draw water into joints between stepped flashing that is unsatisfactorily lapped. At this point, there’s nothing you can do but take it apart and redo it properly.
Windows with nailing flanges can help make the transition from the window to the wall, and provide a way to seal the window to the wall’s water-resistive barrier using flashing tapes.
Caulks and sealants provide additional water and air barriers. However, not all joints are meant to be caulked. Some provide an exit for air or moisture trapped within the wall assembly, so follow the window supplier’s recommendations. No single product is suitable in all cases.
“It’s a compatibility issue,” says Larry Livermore, technical standards manager with the American Architectural Manufacturers Association. “The most expensive sealant might not be the right one either.”
When in doubt, ask the manufacturer.
All windows require the same basic installation steps, but the specifics vary by type and manufacturer. Don’t assume you or your crews know how to install one type of window because you’ve installed other types before.
Always refer to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. If the situation is a little unusual, don’t hesitate to give the manufacturer a call. Although a job’s details may seem unique, odds are the window manufacturer has encountered something similar before. An extra 15 minutes on the phone now could save hours of repair time later.
“We’ve got a department that specializes in designing installations that are not covered in the standard guidelines,” says Mathes.
Many manufacturers also offer installer assistance programs to help installers keep up with the rapidly changing window industry.
Upgrade the Window, Improve the Efficiency
Upgrade the Window, Improve the Efficiency
Single-pane windows are one of the largest sources of heat loss in winter due to their low insulating ability and high air leakage rates. They’re also a major source of unwanted heat gain in the summer. As a result, single-pane windows are significant net energy losers, responsible for 25 to 50 percent of the energy used to heat and cool homes.
Since single-pane windows have become dinosaurs, almost any window will be an improvement.
A safe bet is to select a window with an Energy Star label. The National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) energy performance label will also help you compare windows based on five factors:
- U-factor measures how well a product prevents heat from escaping.
- Solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) measures how well a product blocks heat caused by sunlight.
- Visible transmittance measures how much light comes through a product.
- Air leakage measures how much air will pass through cracks in the window assembly.
- Condensation resistance measures the ability to resist the formation of condensation on the interior surface.
The optimal combination of U-factor and SHGC depends on your climate zone. Products with the Energy Star label will include a map to help you determine the right window for your area.
In storm-prone regions and regions that require protection from flying debris, suggest an upgrade to impact-resistant windows. Impact-resistant assemblies have laminated glass and generally require longer screws (for deeper, more secure penetration) and more screws in more places (for added support). Check your local building code for requirements.
For more information, visit www.toolbase.org, www.energystar.gov and www.nfrc.org.
Using Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs) to Achieve Efficiencies
Using Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs) to Achieve Efficiencies
Here’s a look at how using SIPs can attain high-energy efficiency and improve home construction
By Scott Bergford, Owner, Scott Homes, Inc. July 6, 2009 HousingZone
Building with SIPs has resulted in a 60 percent reduction in costs to heat our homes. Customers love the lower utility bills. |
In light of rising energy costs and growing environmental awareness, more homebuyers are focusing on the energy efficiency of their new home’s design and construction. It’s a home attribute that’s gone from a “nice to have” to being a deciding factor for many people.
Achieving dramatic improvements in home energy efficiency requires advanced building techniques and products, not simply doing existing things better. Think of it like a horse versus a car: no matter how well you feed and train the horse, it will never run as fast as a car.
To improve energy performance, meet other green building goals, and streamline the building process, my company has been using structural insulated panels (SIPs) for the past 12 years. In conjunction with double-pane, low-e, energy spacer glazing and hydronic radiant floor heating systems, building with SIPs has resulted in a 60 percent reduction in costs to heat our homes. For many of our SIP homes, it costs only $200-$300 per year to heat them. These numbers are significantly lower than what the costs are to heat the average home in Western Washington State where we build.
If you’ve been thinking about trying SIPs, it’s not hard to get started and there are numerous benefits. As a builder, we love SIPS because they enable us to dry in a house much faster, the walls are stronger than stick built, they always are straight and plumb, we have significant reduction in call-backs, we’re able to easily qualify for EnergyStar and Built Green® certification requirements, it’s easier to market and sell our homes because of the significant energy efficiency and improved indoor air quality, and we have extremely happy customers.
My customers tell us they love their SIP-built homes because they feel more comfortable and that the home gives them peace of mind due to its solid, quality construction, durability, and the healthy clean air environment. And, they LOVE the lower utility bills!
Structural Insulated Panels consist of two outer skins of oriented strand board and ann inner core of expanded polystyrene that are laminated together. |
Energy Savings
SIPs are prefabricated structural and insulated components used to build walls, ceilings and floors. They consist of two outer skins of oriented strand board (OSB) and an inner core of expanded polystyrene laminated together to form a monolithic building panel with extreme energy efficiency.
They replace conventional stud or stick frame construction and need no additional insulation or skeleton for support. Because SIPs houses have fewer joints, it’s easier and cheaper to create a tight building envelope than when building with stick framing and fiberglass batts or spray-in insulation.
The U.S. Dept. of Energy’s Oak Ridge National Laboratory has conducted many tests on building with SIPS. One important evaluation is comparing blower door tests of SIPs homes versus stick-framing. They found that SIPs reduce air leakage by about 90 percent, while also providing a higher overall R value for the completed wall. The benefits are so consistent that EnergyStar removed the requirement for a blower door test on a gas heat system in order to certify a SIP built house. Another test demonstrated that the whole house insulation value of a SIP wall is much greater than a stick built wall. You can see the results on the Structural Insulated Panel Association’s Web site.
Washington State University ran independent tests on three of our SIP homes and estimated the energy consumption to be 60 percent less per year than for a typical 2,250 square-foot house.
Another financial benefit to consider beyond the ongoing energy savings is the availability of federal, state and local tax credits and deductions for energy efficient building practices, such as SIPs. All our homes in the last two years have qualified for the $2,000 Federal energy tax credit!
Additional Green Benefits
In addition to superior energy efficiency, SIPs construction supports environmentally responsible building in several other ways, including indoor air quality, waste reduction, and recyclability.
Indoor air quality
Next to energy efficiency, indoor environmental health and air quality are typically top of mind with homeowners when it comes to building green. By creating a tight building envelope, SIPs help stop pollen, mold, dust and other irritants and pollutants from seeping in. Some manufacturers’ SIPs also do not contain formaldehyde or other off-gassing components that can negatively impact indoor air.
Waste reduction
We’re all familiar with the large dumpsters required to hold framing material waste at the typical job site. In many ways, it’s become an expected cost of doing business and is typically seen as just the way things are. However, using SIPs eliminates large volumes of wood waste – up to two thirds. The SIPs manufacturer cuts all of the pieces in their factory, eliminating much of the need for builders to cut lumber to length on site. This not only helps the environment, but also reduces labor costs and disposal fees.
Recyclability
Many SIPs are completely recyclable, including both the OSB, as well as the insulating foam core. Depending on the product, the foam core itself may include recycled content. Check with the manufacturer to see what amount they may be using.
Bottom Line Advantages
While building green is important, we also use SIPs because they help speed construction and create happy homeowners – both critical for profitability and long-term success.
Fast Construction
SIPs install much faster than stick framing. Because the structural elements and insulation come in an integrated piece, there’s no need for separate framing, insulating and sheathing work. Plus, the electrical chases are pre-cut so there’s no need to drill through studs for wiring. The window and door openings are also pre-cut, including curved doors and other complex features. As a result, we can dry-in a home within a matter of days, instead of weeks.
Quality finishes
The large, one-piece panels arrive at the job site straight and square, and are easy to install plumb. They eliminate the waviness that can be difficult to avoid in stud walls. Their straightness not only creates a better-looking wall, but also provides even anchor points for cabinets and smoother operating windows and doors.
SIPs are fairly straightforward to place and attach to the foundation or to other framing members. |
Getting Started
Although most builders have not used SIPs, they are pretty easy to get used to. The primary requirement is a willingness to try something new. For an experienced framing crew, learning to work with SIPs typically only takes a few hours.
SIPs suppliers and distributors typically provide detailed assistance, from design through construction. For example, our SIPs manufacturer, Premier Building Systems, works closely with us on design, integrating SIPs from the beginning. In other cases, they can readily convert a stick-framed design to one with SIPs. They then make the panels and deliver them to our job site ready to install.
The panels are fairly straightforward to place and attach to the foundation or to other framing members. Once installed, it’s critical to seal all joints between panels and other framing components with mastics, tape or other sealants to provide a tight envelope. The manufacturer will provide details on which methods and products are required with their SIPs.
As far as other aspects of construction, working with SIPs is similar to conventional framing. Because they are wood sheathed, they are easy to fasten finishing materials to with screws or nails.
Conclusion
Once we started using SIPs, we decided to never go back to stick framing. My customers say they can immediately see and feel the difference in our structural insulated panel built homes. With the benefits to customers, builders, and the environment, we believe that most homes will eventually be built with SIPs.
About the Author
Scott Bergford is the owner of Scott Homes, a custom builder in Olympia, Washington, committed to green homebuilding and state-of-the-art construction practices. His company was honored as the 2009 “Builder of the Year” in the EnergyValue Housing Awards hosted by the NAHB Research Center and U.S. Department of Energy (DOE).
Energy-Efficient Lighting Design
Energy-Efficient Lighting Design
IBACOS, for DOE’s Building America Program — 8/1/2004
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High-performance lighting - lighting that’s efficient and relates well to the design of the house - helps make homes look better, helps with visual tasks and also can reduce the home’s energy use.
However, don’t expect to simply install energy-efficient fixtures and save bundles in energy costs - the biggest energy savings come as part of an effort to improve the performance of the entire house, including increasing insulation, installing high-performance windows, sealing air leaks, sealing supply and return ductwork, and installing a high-efficiency furnace and air conditioner. Benefits increase when all these improvements are considered together: For example, more efficient lighting reduces the air-conditioning load. Also, the Department of Energy groups appliances with lighting when looking at energy use. If you’re focusing on lighting, consider replacing old appliances with energy-efficient ones: The most efficient appliances on the market are labeled Energy Star.
Design principles While the lighting strategy you choose depends on the level of remodeling you’re doing, these design principles hold true.
1. Focus your effort on rooms used most. Improving the lighting in these rooms will make a lot of difference.
2. Replace existing fixtures. Most homes have incandescent fixtures. Replace them with dedicated, hard-wired fluorescents. If you use screw-ins, they may be switched back to incandescents when the bulb burns out, losing the efficiency benefits. Hard-wired fixtures may have better aesthetics and light quality, too.
3. Layer lighting for maximum impact. To produce dramatic effects, design ambient, task and accent lighting. Ambient lighting provides general room illumination and may reduce the need for additional portable lighting. Task lighting helps homeowners see better where they need it - under-cabinet lighting in the kitchen to help in preparing meals, for example. Accent lighting adds sparkle by focusing on an architectural detail such as a fireplace or on photos or artwork.
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In the photo above, the kitchen is lit by a low-quality fluorescent fixture (128 installed watts). The result is a dreary room with little character. In the photo below, under- and above-cabinet high-quality fluorescent lighting (140 installed watts) provides excellent indirect light for the entire kitchen with complementary task light on the counter. |
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4. Consider the room’s function and form. No matter where you start, con-sider which activities are most important for the room. Perhaps the easiest place to begin is the kitchen. As stated above, under-cabinet lighting provides task lighting. When there is space above kitchen cabinets, between cabinet and ceiling, it’s easy to mount inexpensive strip lights to provide excellent, glare-free light for the entire room. A recessed downlight over a kitchen island will accent the island, help the homeowner see better when performing kitchen tasks and provide ambient light.
For the family room, use a combination of ambient, track and portable lighting. Use a reduced level of ambient light in the home office to avoid glare on computer screens. In the bathroom, both appearance and safety are important. At the vanity, light from either side of the mirror, as well as the top, to avoid shadows.
Also consider the room’s design. “Integrate lighting logically with the architectural characteristics of the room,” says John Holton, an IBACOS researcher. “For example, cove lighting that illuminates raised ceilings and valance lighting above windows provides general illumination while relating well to specific architectural features and gives the room nice character.”
5. Use concealed light sources. Homeowners will notice the illuminated floors, walls and ceiling of the room instead of the light bulbs. Concealed light sources help eliminate direct glare from lamps.
6. Use fluorescents. According to DOE research, fluorescents use 25 percent to 35 percent of the energy used by incandescents to give the same light output and last up to 10,000 hours, compared with 1,000 for the typical incandescent bulb. Using a mix of fluorescents and incandescents is likely to be less efficient than using all fluorescents. Based on preliminary research findings from Building America team member Steven Winter Associates, homes with compact fluorescents (CFLs) installed only in certain areas (usually kitchens and hallways) use more energy than homes with 100 percent CFL lighting.
Most people associate fluorescents with the harsh, bluish lighting typically found in garages. For a nice, crisp light - quality as good as incandescents-choose fluorescents with a color temperature of 3,000 degree Kelvin, with a color rendering index (CRI) of 80 or greater.
Also, choose electronic ballasts for both linear fluorescents and CFLs. Electronic ballasts provide a better quality light and are more energy efficient. They don’t hum, last longer and eliminate the turn-on delay typically associated with fluorescent lighting.
7. Limit the number of different light sources. For linear fluorescents, only use two different ones (3 foot and 4 foot), and for CFLs, only use three: 15, 26 and 32 watts. This makes it easier for homeowners to replace the lamps.
8. Consider controls. “Controls such as photo sensors, occupancy sensors, dimmers and remote controls may help to reduce energy by ensuring that lights are only used when needed,” says Subrato Chandra, a researcher at Florida Solar Energy Center.
IBACOS (Integrated Building and Construction Solutions) is a research and consulting firm specializing in building science. IBACOS is a member of the DOE’s Building America Program, which supports research on remodeling homes to save energy while improving health and comfort.
A range of fixture types are available to implement high-performance lighting. The list below includes fluorescent fixtures using either linear lamps or CFLs. Many are available as
Energy Star fixtures, which meet strict energy-efficiency guidelines set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the DOE.
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Recessed downlights provide indirect lighting by shining onto the floor and room furnishings. Wall washers are recessed downlights with a reflector or lens to illuminate a wall. |
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Recessed downlights and wall washers: A common way to offer concealed source ambient lighting, recessed downlights and wall washers provide indirect illumination through reflections from the floor, walls and furnishings. These ceiling-mounted fixtures come in sizes ranging from 13 to 42 watt. Reflectors are available in highly reflective aluminum (Alzak) and white. Recessed downlights also may have black/white baffles and several types of lenses. Many of the lensed fixtures are suitable for use in wet locations such as bathrooms.
When recessed downlights are installed in insulated ceilings, heat can build up, significantly reducing lamp and ballast life, as well as reducing light output. The DOE’s Emerging Technologies Program at Pacific Northwest National Laboratory is researching new technologies for reflector-type (R-lamp) CFLs installed in recessed downlights located in insulated ceilings. For more information, visit: www.pnl.gov/r-lamps.
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Cove lighting above kitchen cabinets provides general room illumination. |
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Under-cabinet lighting, like these installed in a kitchen, helps with tasks like meal preparation. |
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There are many attractive designs for ceiling- and wall-mounted fluorescent fixtures. |
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Coves and valances: Built-in lighting coves in cove ceilings or above kitchen cabinets use inexpensive T-8 (1 inch in diameter) or T-5 (5/8 inch in diameter) strip lights and provide a wash of light across the ceiling. Valances, located above windows, also employ strip lights and illuminate both up the wall and onto the ceiling as well as down around draperies.
Under-cabinet lights: These long, thin fluorescent fixtures are mounted underneath wall cabinets and above work surfaces. They typically are found in kitchens and other work areas. The best light output is offered by the newest designed fixtures that use T-5 lamps of 14 watt, 21 watt and 28 watt in fixtures of nominal 2-, 3- and 4-foot length. These offer higher brightness and better light color quality.
Surface lighting: There is a vast array of surface-mounted linear and CFL fixtures. These range from very utilitarian 1×4-foot garage lights to detailed round, square and rectangular ceiling- and wall-mounted fixtures. These fixtures may use linear T-8 or T-5 lamps, circular lamps or CFLs.
Pendants: There are a limited but growing number of fluorescent pendant fixtures offered by manufacturers. They range in size from mini-pendants (5 inches in diameter) to much larger designs (24 inches in diameter and larger). Because they’re exposed fixtures, choose a style that is compatible with the room.
Thinking of a Kitchen Remodel?
The only thing that stops most people having the kitchen of their dreams is the potential cost. Kitchen remodeling costs will vary depending on the type of kitchen you currently have, the type of kitchen you want, and how much you want to spend. Even if your ideas are for all the best appliances, quality cabinets and worktops seem too high for your budget, it may still be possible for you to enjoy a new kitchen.
However, if you are willing to make a few compromises and a little research then there is no reason why you can’t get close to what you desire. So if you plan it carefully, the cost should only be a minor obstacle to you achieving the kitchen style you really want.
Many homeowners, in an effort to save money, often go the do-it-yourself route. It should also go without saying that you need to be comfortable using tools and not afraid to get your hands dirty because if you aren’t then the chances of you completing this project are small. Whilst it may look very good on paper, if you are not able to do this but try anyway, the chances are you will have to pay a kitchen fitter to rectify your mistakes before they can complete the work.
The main factor you need to consider that will make your kitchen remodeling dream a reality is which jobs you’re able to complete yourself and those where you will need a professional tradesman. Many homeowners find out the hard way that hiring a professional is actually cheaper in the long run after you factor in quality, warranty, and the value of your time that will be wasted trying to spend the next year on a remodeling job that would have taken a professional one month.
Kitchen Remodeling - Get More Living Out Of Your Kitchen!
Many people avoid beginning such a project because they feel overwhelmed by how much work it will take. Realistically, it is possible to remodel your kitchen on a budget and in your spare time. You just have to know where to start. First of all, do you avoid entertaining because your kitchen is outdated? Is it hard to find adequate storage space? Is counter-space an issue? If you’ve answered yes to any of these questions, it may be time to begin the process of remodeling your kitchen area. You would be surprised at how much easier life is with an upgraded modern kitchen.
The first step to creating a kitchen design is realizing what your kitchen lacks. If counter-space is an issue, replace the counters and perhaps add a island counter to the middle of your kitchen. If cabinet space is an issue, take into account your current cabinets and ask yourself how they could be improved. Many kitchens that were designed in the 70s and 80s make terrible use of space and often times the cabinets fail to reach to the top of the ceiling. By replacing cabinets and using all of the available space, your kitchen will automatically have more storage and appear more spacious.
One modern kitchen trend is having cabinets that are fiberglass and see-through. This makes the process of finding appliances much easier plus there are many types of designs you can use for the interior of the cabinets. For instance, one house had see-though cabinets and painted a floral pattern on the inside. This added a beautiful and modern twist to their outdated kitchen.
The next step is figuring out what types of appliances to purchase to update your kitchen. You can get many appliances for a cheap down payment and then a financing option to make the process more affordable. If you have an old refrigerator, go to the store sometime and check out newer models. You will be amazed at how much they’ve been improved over the years. Some other appliances that have come light years in the past couple of years are stoves, dishwashers and trash compactors. These are all affordable ways to modernize your kitchen.
Another terrible trend of kitchen design in the 70s and 80s was color choice. So many kitchens were painted bland, boring colors that look outdated and make your kitchen appear cave-like. For an instant upgrade, try painting the walls a bright color and getting rid of old curtains. One modern trend is natural light so if you have windows, use them to the best of your ability. If you don’t have much window light, consider natural lighting in combination with track lighting. This will allow you to accentuate your kitchen’s space and make it more inviting to guests.
The basics to creating a modern kitchen are not out of reach, no matter how much you have to spend. You can get a beautiful, updated kitchen that renews your joy of cooking and entertaining. Just know where to start, what to replace and how to go about doing it. Start planning a dinner party!
DIY Kitchen Remodeling vs. Hiring A Professional
If you don’t think you have what it takes to remodel your kitchen, you don’t want to be getting into it at all. Instead, you will do well to get some professional help to do it for you. As a matter of fact, most Americans prefer it that way, so you wouldn’t be the first. The only thing you might be sacrificing is the personal touch, and you might slip in a little something you fancy once the job is done, anyway.
The first thing you want to do when you are remodeling your kitchen is to draw out a plan. The plan of course has to include a list of things you want to remove and replace, and those things you are going to be replacing them with this will help you be able to develop an estimate of how much the whole process might cost you. Now you can go ahead with it.
With all that remodeling your kitchen is bound to entail, you cannot afford to have yourself distracted by anything. Whatever else it is that you are into, you are going to have to put all that on hold to make this thing happen. Remember, a kitchen remodel is a full-time endeavor. If you are going to tackle it yourself, make sure you have plenty of time on your hands to manage all of the subs, material orders, and punch out. Also, be prepared to learn the hard way as problems always come up. A professional remodeler has been through this as well. Their advantage however, is that this is their full-time job, and they have already learned where the pitfalls lie, and how to navigate the unpredictable world of remodeling. The end result is a seamless experience for the homeowner. While you might save money doing your kitchen remodel yourself, just be prepared to handle all of the unknown frustrations and setbacks, and be prepared to take it slow. If you are looking to get your project completed with quality workmanship, on budget, and on schedule, then give us a call today.
Kitchen Remodeling Design Considerations
It’s not every day that you find a kitchen with entertaining stuff in it. Most folks, men especially just view the kitchen as a place that they walk into to get their food, and walk back into to put the plates away. Had they but known all the effort and time that needed to go into that preparation, they would understand how that you need something – anything – to help with the recreation while the cooking goes on: you need just a little bit of remodeling.
You need a special area in your kitchen that is simply for cooking and preparing food. I like to think of them as specialized food preparation areas. In redesigning your kitchen, there has got to be some arrangements made such that those parts are clearly distinguished from every other area. That way you have room to move freely about, and be happy too.
I was a bit surprised one day when I walked into a friend’s kitchen and found it to be a very large and airy space, with everything that you would find in a regular kitchen, and more. What really got to me was the laundry equipment. I mean, I have heard of it before, but I hadn’t seen anybody actually do their laundry in the kitchen. It did seem nice to me, though, in a strange way. I decided I would be remodeling my kitchen to have some of those.
It is a question of what you have in mind, not what the name of the process is. Some folks tend to think of kitchen remodeling as something you can only do when you have a lot of money to throw around. Yes, that too is one way that it can get, but it is more of a process in which you replace the things you don’t want by the things that you do want. So it could take a bit of a while. Well, don’t let that stop you; you can do it all at your own pace still.
