Is your old deck safe?

May is National Deck Safety Month.

According to the North American Deck and Railing Association (NADRA), between 2000 and 2008 there were at least 30 deaths reported as a direct result of deck collapses. More than 75 percent of people on a deck when it collapses are injured or killed. With 40 million decks in the United States that are more than 20 years old, the NADRA says it’s important to check decks.

NADRA says some older decks may only have deck-to-house attachments using only nails and other glaring faults. A knowledgeable deck builder can remedy a deck up to state code, licensing and insurance requirements.

NADRA released a four-page deck evaluation checklist for contractors rehabbing or installing a new deck. Questions include:

1. Is the ledger attached to an acceptable wood rim joist?
2. What is the foundation type? Post size?
3. What is the post-to-concrete connection?
4. What is the post-to-beam connection? Has the connection been bent or modified?
5. Regarding the joist: does the hanger have double-shear nailing? Are the correct nails installed in the hangers?
6. What supports the stairs? Rise/run?
7. On composite decks, if it is a hidden fastener system, what lateral support has been provided?
8. Are all fasteners properly seated and flush with the connection?
9. Are all connector holes property filled?

Community Fence in Selbyville Delaware

We built a community fence in this Selbyville, Delaware development! The fence provided privacy for the homeowners and gave the community a finished unified look! Alcoa Construction credits ourselves on being an in-house talented carpentry contractor! All of our projects are done in a timely manner and feature a hassle free experience! Our company also undertakes other projects such as home remodels, including both kitchen remodeling and bath remodeling, porch additions, attic remodeling,  garage additions, roofing estimates, siding installation, and much more! Contact us today and let us get started on your home transformations!

Our primary service areas are Sussex County Delaware and Worcester County in Maryland.  The cities we most frequently serve include Ocean View, Bethany Beach, Millville, Fenwick Island, West Fenwick, Selbyville, Frankford, Dagsboro, Millsboro, Long Neck, Rehoboth, Dewey Beach, Lewes, Harbeson, Georgetown, Milford, Slaughter Beach, Milton, Greenwood, Bridgeville, Seaford, Laurel, Delmar, Salisbury, Pittsville, Berlin, Ocean Pines, West Ocean City, and Ocean City.  We also serve Kent County Delaware, Wicomico County Maryland, and Talbot County Maryland.

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Finishing the Deck - Basic Construction - Part 4

Stairs:Most deck require some stairs.  They can be simple or complex as shown here. We cover how to make stairs in a previous article, but will show you here about the handrail. Handrails are usually required when you reach more than 3 risers…the simple stairs to the right have 3 risers, and the ones below have 5.
	Handrail construction is identical to rail construction except you cut the T posts at an angle on top to receive the top rail. Check your local building codes for handrail height requirements.
	Want to get fancy ?

Stairs & Railings - Basic Construction - Part 3

Railings:Our project deck uses a picket railing with unique and easy to build railing supports. We also have projects showing fancy railing patterns such as Sunburst and Chippendale . Click on them to see if you would like a fancier look for your deck.
	Step 8 - Our railing system is easy to build, low cost and stronger than the 4×4 posts  frequently used. The upright posts are made entirely of 2×4’s that are fastened together to form a “T” as shown. The length of board “A” is 36″.  The length of board “B” is 42″ ( 44″ for 2×10 joists)  Fasten together as shown…flush on one end. Cut bevel in end as shown in photo below at location “D”. Install upright posts as needed by the deck design. Try not to exceed 7 feet between upright posts. Determine each post location and cut out the 1″ overhang on the edge of the deck. (location “E”)  Cutout will be 3 1/2″ wide. Install each post by making it plumb and nailing it to the joist. Drill a 3/8″ hole in the face of the upright in the middle of the joist at location “C”.  Install 3/8″ x 4″ bolt and tighten.
Angle posts are shown in photo below. The 3 boards are assembled in place unlike the T posts which are preassembled.For added strength install 2 1/2″ screw from under the deck, into the upright at location “F”. Angle corner posts
Step 9 - Measure and install horizontal 2×4 railing supports (”G”) between each set of upright posts. Nail or screw into back of upright T post as shown.  Top board is flush with top of post, bottom board is 4″ up from deck surface.	Step 10 - Install top rail.  This is 5/4×6″ decking board.  Make miter cuts at angles as shown. Step 11 - Cut pickets 32″ long and bevel one end as shown. (You will get 3 pickets out of each 2×2x8′). cut and install a 2×2 horizontally (location “J” in photo below) directly below the top rail on the outside of the railing. Space the pickets 3 1/2″ apart using a 2×4 as shown. Location “K” in photo above.
Angle corner post with top rail installed		Angle rail assembly completed

Installing Decking - Basic Construction - Part 2

Step 6 - Now that we have the main girder in place and supported by all it’s vertical columns, its time to install the joists, followed by the decking boards.
If you haven’t already measured the 16″ joist spacing on the girder beam, do so now. The measurements should mirror the ledger board joist spacing. Place and nail remaining joists in place, filling all nail holes in joist hangers.  If you have a 24″ cantilever on both the girder beam and the joists, the clipped corner will be exactly 45 degrees. This makes cutting the angles easier. Note that at point “A” the diagonal rim joist ends at the girder beam allowing the end deck joist full support on the girder. Nail rim joist to end of all joists as shown at location “B”.
	Point “A &B” show the rim joist that closes up the end of the joists.
Step 7 -  Installing deck boards.  We install boards at an angle because you can build a 12 to 14 foot deck with no seams in the decking boards. Deck boards that are butted together end to end tend to splinter when dried out.  You have less splinters and cracked boards if you can use full length boards.  16′ decking boards will cover a 12′ deep deck at a 45 degree angle. 16′ decking boards will cover a 14′ deep deck at less than a 45 degree angle, but still acceptable. Determine your angle and cut the end that butts up to the house.
Note in the pictures that after the boards are fastened down you snap a chalk line leaving a 1 inch overhang and cut off the boards in place.  Also note that you simply install full length boards around the clipped corner and cut them off in place as well. See points “A, B & C” Points “B & C” are the 45 degree clipped corner.
Next we’ll work on the railing	Some tips about decking lumber you probably are not aware. This information will help you have a better deck. Many homeowners pick out their lumber at the store…if you do this you might as well follow this guidance concerning your decking boards. Use 5/4 x 6″ decking in place of 2×6 lumber. Choose lumber that has an end grain that looks like this: This shows the board is from the outside of the tree. Boards that are closer to the center of the tree will warp upwards  when the sun dries them out. Install your decking boards with a “Frown” (as shown)…not with a “Smile”.  The natural desire of this board to cup downward will be counteracted by the drying effects of the sun on the opposite side of the board… thus a straighter deck. Now on to railings…

Deck Building - Basic Construction - Part 1

Adding a deck is one of the most useful projects a homeowner can do to improve their home.   Each deck is different and presents it’s own set of challenges, so contact us with unique questions if they are not covered here.  We are building a 12′ x 24′ beck with “clipped” corners and lattice installed below. Check with your local building code enforcement office for specific material requirements in your area .  For instance, the footer requirements vary greatly in different areas of the country, and you will need to know your local requirements. Certain assumptions are made with deck building.  1. Use appropriate lumber such as pressure treated yellow pine, redwood, or others designated for such work.  2. Use galvanized nails, nuts, bolts, and screws. Step1 - Install ledger board on house as shown.  Remove siding material if necessary to place your ledger board directly on the sheathing. If siding material is masonry you will bolt the ledger board directly on the surface of the brick or block. Ledger board will normally be the same size as the joists you are using.  In our project a large ledger board was installed previously to cover the area below the door until the deck could be installed. Determine length of deck, cut and nail ledger board directly to sheathing or brick  veneer. Drill 1/2″ holes every 16″  through ledger board and house floor joists.  Install with 1/2″ x 8″ galvanized nuts and bolts with washers and tighten securely.Step 2 - Measure and install joist hangers every 16″.  See Figure “B” above. Fill every hole in each joist hanger with nails or screws. Joist hanger nails are also available at your local home center. Figure “A”  is the flashing placed behind the siding to go on top of the decking boards to keep rain from washing behind the ledger board. Step 3 - Locate and install footers to hold deck. This is best planned with information provided by your local building code enforcement office.They will provide the following: How many footers will be required for a deck your size. How deep to dig to stay below the frost line. Thickness of solid masonry footer (usually 8″). Minimum length and width (footprint) of the footer. Our project used footer blocks which can be purchased at your local home center.  A string is used to assure all footers are in line. Footer placement will be determined by the length and width of the deck.  Part of determining footer location is to square up the area where the footers will be placed. If your deck is  24′ long by 12′ deep with cantilevered joists, your footer line will be 10′ out from the house. Place two stakes in the ground 10′ out from the house that are 24′ apart. Diagonally measure across this 10′x24′ rectangle to determine the squareness of this work area. Adjust the stakes left or right (staying 24′ apart and 10′ from the house) to make your work area a true rectangle with 90 degree angles. When you have both diagonal measurements equal, your work area is square. This is the line for your footers to be placed in.  If you are cantilevering your main beam as well, measure in 24″ from each end and then calculate the number of additional footers needed to cover the distance left.By cantilevering floor joists over main girder as we have done you can have a stronger deck and can use smaller lumber. Check below for some general guidelines as to lumber specs and deck construction. General Lumber Guidelines:  (Check your local building code for requirements in your area) Pressure treated lumber (.40cca and above) can be placed on or below the ground. In other words your footer does not have to reach above the ground as ours did to keep the lumber above grade. Double 2×10 is the normal main girder (beam) on deck construction. Larger lumber can be used to span longer distances between footers. Double 2×10 pressure treated SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) can normally span approximately 8 feet between supports.  (See “D” to “B” below) Deck joists can be cantilevered approximately 24″ past main girder. Main Beam can be cantilevered approximately 24″ past each end column support (See “E” below) Cantilevering the main beam frequently allows for fewer footers and upright column supports, while making the deck just as strong. 2×8 SYP treated joists will span approximately 12 feet. With cantilevering you could build a 14 foot deck with 2×8 joists. 2×10 SYP treated joists will span approximately 14 feet, allowing a 16 foot deck with cantilevered joists. Vertical column supports can be 4×4 material up to a length of approximately 4 feet. For lengths longer than 4 feet between footer and bottom of girder beam (location “C” below) , use a 6×6. Step 4 - Assemble main girder beam to cover the length of the deck (same length as the ledger board you fastened to the house). Stagger the seams in the two piece girder so they are over top of a column support (location “B”).  Drawing below shows staggered girder joints. Step 5 - Determine the height of the column supports (”C”) by installing 2 joists. Install and nail one joist in each end joist hanger on the ledger board that is in-line with the two end footers. Place a level on top of first joist at point “A” and raise that joist until it is level. Nail a temporary column support at the end of that joist, holding it in place. Repeat this for the other end joist. Measure the distance from the top of your footer to the bottom of each joist. Subtract the thickness of your main beam (9 1/4″ for a 2×10 beam). This will be the length of your vertical column support. Nail a guide (see location  “D” on figure above) to side of vertical column to hold main girder in place and in-line during assembly. Fasten main girder to vertical columns with guide (location “D”) and lift into place. It should come up under the two joists used earlier for measurement.  Square up, plumb columns and toe-nail these two joists to the girder to hold in place. Toe nail these two joists in their correct location by mirroring the joist locations on the ledger board.  Measure and add any additional vertical columns. Temporarily brace this structure with diagonal 2×4 braces on the vertical columns.  Now your ready to start installing deck joists.

Home Builder - Contractor in West Fenwick Island, DE

On this home we completed the framing, trim, decks, windows, doors, railings, sunroom, and screened porch.

Composite Deck and Sidewalk

Composite Deck with 110 foot sidewalk from the front of the house for a finished look and hours of entertainment enjoyment.